Thursday, 7 March 2013

My Favourite Shows Of Paris Fashion Week: Autumn/Winter 2013 - Part 1

There have been some truly stunning collections shown this past week in Paris. Designers have surpassed themselves and created original and groundbreaking collections. I can't wait to see how these collections will be interpreted by many great stylists for editorial. I really wanted to share my favourite shows from this past week with you. All the collections featured in these posts really touched and amazed me.

For me, Louis Vuitton shows are always consistent. In my eyes, Marc Jacobs is a genius at creating a show for dreamers and real fashion lovers. He not only designs sublime and faultless clothing everybody wants to wear in an instant, he is also the master of showmanship. The spaces he creates with his team are out of this world in their extravagance and splendour. He brought us elevators for Autumn/Winter 2011 (a personal favourite of mine), a  carousel for Spring/Summer 2012, a steam train for Autumn/Winter 2012, escalators for Spring/Summer 2013 and now a hotel corridor for Autumn/Winter 2013. This collection was truly stunning. Think Betty Boop 1920s meets Elizabeth Taylor 1950s - very romantic and sexy. There was a gorgeous mix of silk satin slips, floaty and sheer bias cut gowns and masculine dress coats. I loved the mixture of layers and textures (the sequin and feather dipped hems were beautiful and something I haven't seen before), and the way the clothes moved was magnificent. Katie Grand's styling was perfection. The cherry on top had to be the appearance of Kate Moss who hasn't appeared on the catwalk since their Spring/Summer 2012 collection. This was by far my favourite show of fashion week as a whole. It was magical!

The Givenchy show is always a highlight for me. I love Riccardo Tisci's strong, dark and edgy designs. They are contemporary and cutting edge, yet so wearable. He really does understand his customer and what they want to wear. You can put this down to his childhood in a female environment (he has 8 sisters). His Autumn/Winter 2013 collection for Givenchy was surprisingly nostalgic and personal. It was definitely his most romantic collection to date. He kept skirts long, soft and flowy in an array of gorgeously printed silks and tulles, whilst toughening up the overall look with masculine sweatshirts and python boots. A highlight for me was his revisiting of previous collections under his creative control. He reused his lily motif from Autumn/Winter 2011 and peplum idea from Spring/Summer 2012. There was a definite gypsy vibe to the collection, a factor Riccardo identified. The perfect finishing touch had to be the tightly curled, candy coloured hair by Luigi Murenu. This collection was astonishingly beautiful, trendsetting and iconic.

Raf Simons created another gorgeous collection for Christian Dior. Despite only being his second prêt-à-porter show for the house, his aesthetic is clearly identifiable - minimalistic and sensitive. I loved his simplistic designs. Their clean lines were utterly chic and sophisticated. The introduction of a baggier trouser and leather "lady" style dress added a cool and contemporary touch to the old classics. I particularly liked the mix of classic houndstooth with crochet overlay.  The early Andy Warhol illustration motif featured on various shifts, peplums and bags was by far my favourite touch. They added a fabulous dimension and quirk. I have been a fan of Andy Warhol's early illustrations for quite some time and actually have one of his fashion illustrstrations from 1959 featured on my bedroom wall. For this reason, this collection felt quite personal to me and added to my love of it.

I will bring you part 2 of my favourite Paris shows/collections tomorrow. Until then, I hope you have enjoyed reading my thoughts on the shows featured.

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